Looking at Steps 12 and 13 of the Instructions.
The dual exhausts on the kit, parts D1, D15, are accurate for the early Tiger. However, Part D17 is an elevated outlet cover on four short legs above the exhaust outlet. My references say this wasn't installed until sometime in early-mid 1943, which is a little late for the Tunisian Tiger. So I will delete that. One thing that is missing from the exhaust is a hinged flapper cover for each exhaust, that by this time was standard on the Tiger. The flappers will be scratchbuilt using some Plastruct rod, cut to size. Here is where I am waiting on parts.
The rear exhaust was also equipped with sheet metal shields. The original shields were field-installed by maintenance crews in Tunisia, and you can see these both as fully-rounded, or squared corner. My photos say either is correct, and should also have three louvers spaced in the top half of each side of this shield. Since it will be easier to form these using the squared-corner design, I will go with that one. I will fabricate these out of thin aluminum, which means another trip to the hobby store for supplies. That being said, the Tamiya-supplied shields (Part D12) are perfect and nicely done for any version other than the very early Tiger 1.
Here's a tip, too. While I am back here doing some work, there are some very large mounting holes in the rear hull that I will fill and sand, too.
Another thought, while waiting for parts, is that of the engine grills and tool clamps, which are still somewhere in process from Roll Models. In other words, until this stuff shows up, work on the lower hull is coming to a screeching halt. More to follow.....
Saturday, March 27, 2010
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Attaching The Top Deck to The Lower Hull
Sure, this sounds easy. But like Billy Mays always said, “Wait…there’s more!”
First off, The Top Deck (from Step 15 of the Instructions) will be warped. All of mine are to some extent, and this one is no different. You will need to get some heavy rubber bands, and in my case, some small Irwin Quick-Grip clamps, ready. Make sure that the pin marks on the edges of the Top Deck, especially at each rear side, are sanded smooth.
Also, the Front Glacis, Part B3, has two significant pin marks at the top-rear, that should be filled and sanded before you mount the Top Deck. Once these are addressed, run a bead of plastic cement around the full area of the Lower Hull sides where the Top Deck will meet, and inside the front and rear channel for the Top Deck. Insert the Top Deck into the channel in the Front Glacis (B3), then pull it down into the rear channel, and start matching up along the sides. Clamp and band to keep the seam as even as possible. On mine, rubber bands worked well, and they were used around the hull in both side-to-side and end-to-end fashion. At the areas where the warpage was worse, I had to apply slight pressure with a clamp at the right front corner, and the left side just ahead of the engine deck. Once the glue dries, inspect your seam line, fill as needed, and sand smooth.
With all of the sanding done so far, weld seams will need to be re-done. After the glue is dry and the clamps come off.
There are a few things to note, too. The driver's periscope, was ignored from Step 10, since it cannot be seen from the outside. The MG 34 in the Front Glacis (F2) was removed from the ball mount (B1-B3), and the ball mount was left in place. Since this is an exterior-only build, we can mount the machine gun barrel only, after painting, from the outside. Also, at a later time, we will address the two periscopes missing from the hatches. These can also be done from the outside, since Tamiya designed no periscopes coming through the hull, anyway.
Sunday, March 7, 2010
The Front Mudguards
The front mudguards are a decent representation of the real ones, but they need improved. In real life, these were hinged on the outer 1/3, and Tamiya has this hinge molded, but it isn't great, and there is no latching mechanism like in real life. There is a very slight panel line where the two parts meet, but this should be a true cut on the ends where the hinge does not cover it. All of this could be improved, by filing off the hinge, cutting the mudguards where they should, then scratch building hinges, latches, etc. But, these mudguards weren't used until early 1943, and my Tunisian Tiger predates that, which used a different style mudguard. For the earliest Tigers, you will see an unhinged mudguard, that is angled about 10-degrees further than the angle on the front glacis, and then at the mid-point, it has a bend that sends the outer half about another 10-degrees down. These mudguards were also covered in tread plate.
It was time to get the Dremel, and with my cut-off disc, removed the existing mudguards. While there, and you will see this in the photo, it was time to smooth the cut using a file and sandpaper (320), and filling the gap that was hidden under the mudguard.
The replacement will be fabricated using sheet stock, cut to size, and with the correct angle in the middle. Then, I will cover that with scale deck plate, which is available in that scale for car models. Again, check out the local hobby shop or Roll Models. Since I don't have any deck plate, finishing the mudguards will wait.
On Accuracy and Weathering. My Opinion
A few short words on detail, accuracy, and scale effect. First, and this is my opinion, unless you are really into it, or putting your kit into a show or contest, I think that a lot of detailing is over-done. If you look at some of the kits in the previously-mentioned Guide to The Tiger Tank, these guys painfully reproduce every last nut, bolt, and fastener. Good for them, but I'm not into it. My take: remember scale-effect. In 1/25 scale, for instance, and using the normal viewing distance of an arms-length, the real life equivalent would be if you were standing 75 feet away from the real tank. I wouldn't see a wing nut on a tool fastener, and with my eyes, I might have a hard time even counting the road wheels. My feeling is that if the kit part has a close representation, then I am fine with that. That is not to say that I will overlook accuracy, though. I will try to make it as historically accurate as I can. (My next post will expose some of that, and the end-result)
Another example: On page 111 of The Guide to Tiger Tank, it has a picture of the front headlight and the etched mounting bracket they used. Apparently, the real-life bracket that they used for the example was an intricate, angle-iron based support, with miter cuts, mounting bolts, etc. It is crazy-detailed, and in scale (1/35) size, I cannot imagine what that would be like. Since I am building a Tunisian Tiger, and the headlights required the mount on the front plate, I need to use something like that. But then, since this was a field modification in real life, I just cannot imagine these field crews doing anything other than the most basic construction, which to me, would be correct, too. So on mine, it will be a representation of a simple pair of plates welded to the hull that hold the headlight up. Easier for me, and almost impossible to refute.
And weathering? Some, to me, is just completely overdone. Yes, I know that they get dirty, dusty, and muddy in real life. But unless I am putting it in a diorama, all of the caked-on mud looks silly. Plus, again in my opinion, why do you want to do all of the crazy paint detail, dry-brushing, etc., just to obscure it under mud? Again, it is about preference, but I like light weathering.
One more point is painting the thing. Take the Tunisian Tiger, for instance. These were originally in German Grey, then painted green. In the field. Which means, these crews did it using what they had. Behind the road wheels, under the fenders, hull bottom, etc., shouldn't be green, except for where over spray would hit. That is how I want to represent mine. Think Earl Scheib. And I don't get these extensive fade effects, either. Sure, it wasn't the best quality paint that was used in real life. But I see heavy sun fading being represented, with the "pre-shading, post-shading, spraying almost white in panel centers, blah-blah-blah", and I shake my head. Again, to me it is overdone, and I make a slightly lighter top than bottom, but the real ones just didn't survive that long-especially the early ones-to get that faded. Some of them are faded more than that old '34 Ford that was parked in the meadow at my Grandpa's that was still there in the mid-80's.
Time to redirect, and get back to the build.
Another example: On page 111 of The Guide to Tiger Tank, it has a picture of the front headlight and the etched mounting bracket they used. Apparently, the real-life bracket that they used for the example was an intricate, angle-iron based support, with miter cuts, mounting bolts, etc. It is crazy-detailed, and in scale (1/35) size, I cannot imagine what that would be like. Since I am building a Tunisian Tiger, and the headlights required the mount on the front plate, I need to use something like that. But then, since this was a field modification in real life, I just cannot imagine these field crews doing anything other than the most basic construction, which to me, would be correct, too. So on mine, it will be a representation of a simple pair of plates welded to the hull that hold the headlight up. Easier for me, and almost impossible to refute.
And weathering? Some, to me, is just completely overdone. Yes, I know that they get dirty, dusty, and muddy in real life. But unless I am putting it in a diorama, all of the caked-on mud looks silly. Plus, again in my opinion, why do you want to do all of the crazy paint detail, dry-brushing, etc., just to obscure it under mud? Again, it is about preference, but I like light weathering.
One more point is painting the thing. Take the Tunisian Tiger, for instance. These were originally in German Grey, then painted green. In the field. Which means, these crews did it using what they had. Behind the road wheels, under the fenders, hull bottom, etc., shouldn't be green, except for where over spray would hit. That is how I want to represent mine. Think Earl Scheib. And I don't get these extensive fade effects, either. Sure, it wasn't the best quality paint that was used in real life. But I see heavy sun fading being represented, with the "pre-shading, post-shading, spraying almost white in panel centers, blah-blah-blah", and I shake my head. Again, to me it is overdone, and I make a slightly lighter top than bottom, but the real ones just didn't survive that long-especially the early ones-to get that faded. Some of them are faded more than that old '34 Ford that was parked in the meadow at my Grandpa's that was still there in the mid-80's.
Time to redirect, and get back to the build.
A Few Words About References
If you model the Tiger Tank, there are more references than you ever need. These are available via the internet, books, magazine articles, etc. Of course, you already know this. The best of these, in my opinion, is "The Modeler's Guide to The Tiger Tank", written by Patrick Stansell with Bruce Culver. It was released a few years ago, and I am not even sure where I found it, but it is incredible. Not only does it feature numerous builds (and these guys are museum-quality builders), but you will find kit resource lists, identification drawings from the real tanks, and even a disposition list of actual tank chassis numbers. Unbelievable. Here is a great link to a review of the book, via the Edmonton IPMS:
http://www.ipmsedmonton.com/April%202004web.pdf
Saturday, March 6, 2010
More on holes, and that rear axle assembly
There are a total of seven other holes in the hull bottom. Cutting thin sheet to size, I covered all of these. Two of these holes have rear axle adjustment screws poking out. I took the rear axle and sprockets out first, then glued the adjustment bar (Part J-10) into place, and removed the screws.
Check out all of the holes!
Good god, did you notice all the holes in the bottom hull? Everyone else will, too. Obviously, part of a plan for radio control, but since this is a static kit, they need filled. Start with the bottom of the sponsons. Easiest way to fill all of this is to take very thin sheet, cut it to size, and use it like a veneer. If you do this right, it will never be seen when you are done. The fenders will hide it.
Left Side Lower Hull
The left side has a wire towrope held in place by some clips. In the instructions, this is Step 14. The clips look usable, but the wire Tamiya supplies, and the piece of vinyl to hold the end, is dicey. The wire is very stiff steel, so when the time comes, I will replace this with copper. Softer, and easier to bend. I am saving the clips.
Getting Started
Day One. Deconstruction.
I identified the hull that I was going to use. Actually, as they were both in the same condition, it was a coin toss. All road wheels were removed, along with any other parts that needed to come off. On the rear plate, I left mufflers, starter, Fiefel air cleaners, toolbox, fenders, etc. The jack was the only thing removed. Seams were everywhere, and these were addressed. The side fenders were pulled, and these were cut and sectioned, as they should be. The mounting holes for them were filled and sanded.
On the front glacis is a mounted shovel. This is accurate, but the placement, as designed by Tamiya, can’t possibly be correct, or it would get in the way of the coaxial machine gun in the ball mount. Off came the shovel, and the mounts, and these were filled. Keep the shovel, though, for later. This is where I decided (OUCH!) that I am going to buy the Aber 25002 set of photo etch tool holders. Aber makes these for both early and late applications in 1:25 scale. Check Roll Models. While you are there, get the Tiger I grill set, too.
The Introduction (Or things that you can skip)
This Page
Will follow a dedicated build of a Tamiya 30611, German Panzerkampfwagen (SD.KFZ 181) Tiger I Ausf. E. That being said, we will just call it the Tiger. I may call it a few other things along the way. But it will be the Tiger. In 1:25 scale.
More accurately, too, this isn’t a build. It is actually a salvage operation, and herein lies a story, and then we will get started…..
The History
We all know the history of the actual tank, so I am not repeating it here. Look at another website, or as my mother always instructed, “look it up”. And that was back in the days before the Internet, which involved pulling out a 28-pound World Book Encyclopedia. We are talking about this kit, in this scale. The 1:25 scale Tiger was produced by Tamiya starting in the late 1970’s, and was one of a series of tanks in this scale. After many years, the series was discontinued.
By the mid-1990’s, these kits started to become, and still are, collectible and expensive. This is where I came in. By the late 1990’s, I decided that I would corner the market on the 1:25 Tiger, buy as many as I could, and use them for fun and profit. I pictured myself making resin parts and photo-etched grills for them (both skills which I have), and selling my wares on the Internet until I could afford that vacation home in the Caribbean with a Porsche in the driveway. Obviously, life took over, that never happened, and I have quite a few of these Tigers on a shelf in the garage, ranging in condition from new-in-the-box to complete (but poor construction, paint, etc.)
Oh, yes, and Tamiya started to re-issue the series of 1:25 tanks, starting with the Tiger. The hissing sound that you may hear is the deflating balloon, which represents the above-mentioned riches from my cornering the market.
Our Subject
The subject will be one of these Tigers from the garage-stock. More correctly, it will be two. One of my Internet purchases (via ebay), were two Tigers that someone had constructed (yes, they had two), and wanted to get rid of. When I received them, they were fully assembled, but some parts were missing. The interiors had been installed, and about 1/3 of the interior was painted. No paint on the exterior, which is a good thing. What were evident, everywhere, were the seams. No seams were sanded during the original construction. And tube glue. We all know tube glue.
Because of missing parts, and the condition of both, I decided to use the two kits to get to one decent kit. That being said, this will be a “curbside” model. The hatches are getting glued shut. The former owner’s lack of tube-glue control made such a mess of the interior, that I will salvage what I can of the interior parts, and save them for another project.
The next decision was what Tiger to model. Decals from the original do give options, including that of Michael Wittman’s tank. But I have never done a Tunisian Tiger, and wanted to do one. This model accurately puts it into the timeframe of Tigers in North Africa, which works. Plus, the Bovington Tank Museum Tiger was a Tunisian-captured tank, so the photo references are everywhere. Check out the site at http://www.tankmuseum.org/
And another thing….I am not on a mission to recreate this sucker down to the last nut and bolt. If you after that sort of thing, go to a different site. However, the point is, there are few documented builds on the 1:25 Tiger, and this thing has it’s share of issues. With the number of old 1:25 Tigers out there, and the re-issue using the same molds, the thought of sharing my experience may be helpful. Or a fore warning.
So, follow along. I will post photos as I go, and updates as I can. Along the way, be patient. I am not the world’s fastest builder, and I may throw an odd opinion, too. This is my page, after all, which leads me to this thought….
About Me
I am a professional engineer, in my mid-40’s. I modeled as a kid, and then stopped in my late teens, and picked it up again 12 years ago. I have all the tools, skills, etc., but like many people, I sell myself short. I have also somewhat given up on the thought of spending hundreds of hours on a museum-quality piece. I build mostly straight from the box, and maybe add a few items that I scratch build or modify. I hate photo-etch. My fingers and eyes don’t like it. I don’t go to contests because I don’t think that my finished kits are worthy. I do this entirely for my own enjoyment, and a few oohs and ahs from my best friend, Todd, who is a fellow enthusiast. Everyone needs a Todd, by the way.
I am blessed with a great area to do my modeling. I have a desk in an office, adjacent to the man cave, where I can set up shop, not be bothered, and turn on some music. The cat will, at times, jump up on the table, but for the most part, it is my space. And I will advise having a good selection of music in the background.
I do not have unlimited time to do my modeling. I have a job, and chores, and home repair projects, and a family, and a fiancee. More accurately, a charming, beautiful, fiancee, with an unlimited amount of patience for my hobby.
So, hopefully, you are at the point of wanting me to shut-up, and get on with it.
Will follow a dedicated build of a Tamiya 30611, German Panzerkampfwagen (SD.KFZ 181) Tiger I Ausf. E. That being said, we will just call it the Tiger. I may call it a few other things along the way. But it will be the Tiger. In 1:25 scale.
More accurately, too, this isn’t a build. It is actually a salvage operation, and herein lies a story, and then we will get started…..
The History
We all know the history of the actual tank, so I am not repeating it here. Look at another website, or as my mother always instructed, “look it up”. And that was back in the days before the Internet, which involved pulling out a 28-pound World Book Encyclopedia. We are talking about this kit, in this scale. The 1:25 scale Tiger was produced by Tamiya starting in the late 1970’s, and was one of a series of tanks in this scale. After many years, the series was discontinued.
By the mid-1990’s, these kits started to become, and still are, collectible and expensive. This is where I came in. By the late 1990’s, I decided that I would corner the market on the 1:25 Tiger, buy as many as I could, and use them for fun and profit. I pictured myself making resin parts and photo-etched grills for them (both skills which I have), and selling my wares on the Internet until I could afford that vacation home in the Caribbean with a Porsche in the driveway. Obviously, life took over, that never happened, and I have quite a few of these Tigers on a shelf in the garage, ranging in condition from new-in-the-box to complete (but poor construction, paint, etc.)
Oh, yes, and Tamiya started to re-issue the series of 1:25 tanks, starting with the Tiger. The hissing sound that you may hear is the deflating balloon, which represents the above-mentioned riches from my cornering the market.
Our Subject
The subject will be one of these Tigers from the garage-stock. More correctly, it will be two. One of my Internet purchases (via ebay), were two Tigers that someone had constructed (yes, they had two), and wanted to get rid of. When I received them, they were fully assembled, but some parts were missing. The interiors had been installed, and about 1/3 of the interior was painted. No paint on the exterior, which is a good thing. What were evident, everywhere, were the seams. No seams were sanded during the original construction. And tube glue. We all know tube glue.
Because of missing parts, and the condition of both, I decided to use the two kits to get to one decent kit. That being said, this will be a “curbside” model. The hatches are getting glued shut. The former owner’s lack of tube-glue control made such a mess of the interior, that I will salvage what I can of the interior parts, and save them for another project.
The next decision was what Tiger to model. Decals from the original do give options, including that of Michael Wittman’s tank. But I have never done a Tunisian Tiger, and wanted to do one. This model accurately puts it into the timeframe of Tigers in North Africa, which works. Plus, the Bovington Tank Museum Tiger was a Tunisian-captured tank, so the photo references are everywhere. Check out the site at http://www.tankmuseum.org/
And another thing….I am not on a mission to recreate this sucker down to the last nut and bolt. If you after that sort of thing, go to a different site. However, the point is, there are few documented builds on the 1:25 Tiger, and this thing has it’s share of issues. With the number of old 1:25 Tigers out there, and the re-issue using the same molds, the thought of sharing my experience may be helpful. Or a fore warning.
So, follow along. I will post photos as I go, and updates as I can. Along the way, be patient. I am not the world’s fastest builder, and I may throw an odd opinion, too. This is my page, after all, which leads me to this thought….
About Me
I am a professional engineer, in my mid-40’s. I modeled as a kid, and then stopped in my late teens, and picked it up again 12 years ago. I have all the tools, skills, etc., but like many people, I sell myself short. I have also somewhat given up on the thought of spending hundreds of hours on a museum-quality piece. I build mostly straight from the box, and maybe add a few items that I scratch build or modify. I hate photo-etch. My fingers and eyes don’t like it. I don’t go to contests because I don’t think that my finished kits are worthy. I do this entirely for my own enjoyment, and a few oohs and ahs from my best friend, Todd, who is a fellow enthusiast. Everyone needs a Todd, by the way.
I am blessed with a great area to do my modeling. I have a desk in an office, adjacent to the man cave, where I can set up shop, not be bothered, and turn on some music. The cat will, at times, jump up on the table, but for the most part, it is my space. And I will advise having a good selection of music in the background.
I do not have unlimited time to do my modeling. I have a job, and chores, and home repair projects, and a family, and a fiancee. More accurately, a charming, beautiful, fiancee, with an unlimited amount of patience for my hobby.
So, hopefully, you are at the point of wanting me to shut-up, and get on with it.
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